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March 31st, 2004, 11:46 PM
#11
Member
I can't say for sure how warm it will get with the door closed over the weekend during the summer. I'd hate to find out the hard way it went over 120 F although I don't think it will get that high. The ventilation is actually through the light fixtures and there is no window. I could put a grill in if need be. Thnx nihil
[glowpurple]I\'d tell you about my paranoia but I think someone else is listening.[/glowpurple]
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April 1st, 2004, 12:23 AM
#12
Hi Pac Sec..................I guess I am getting annoyed..........I never could tolerate fools and you seem to have cornered the World market in them as your employers? Well, I will comment that it is over 30 years since I was at university, but "micro-meteorology" was a part of my degree.........that's the climate of small spaces
When you go to your hardware store to buy the pet flap...........spend about 5-10$ on a "maximum/minimum thermometer"...........it has a couple of little wire "dumbells" in it and will show you what temperature range you are having to deal with. You can smash it after you are done..........just use a beancounter's head as a suitable blunt instrument.........be sure to hit it several times, just to be on the safe side...........? You can stick the little resetting magnet to your fridge door
Now, for a few $ you can buy these fans, they are usually about 8-10" and mount into a circular hole cut in glass.............but it could be metal or wood?. They are generally used in bathrooms to get rid of steam............temperature inside > temperature outside so the fan spins (air presure only) and sucks the hot air out. If you have grilles lower down, then cold air will be drawn in to fill the partial vacuum effect that you have created? This would give you a primitive air conditioning without electricity.
Hey, the last time I came up with a solution like this it was for my friend's dad's bakery!!!
I do not know your building, orientation, position of external walls, external climatic conditions.......hell, I cannot build you a model, but I will try to suggest a $500 or less solution if you are still interested...............they should still spend the ten grand, but................
Good luck, and keep this going until you are satisfied...........you can always use the PM system for particular details.........sorry I need to find a new e-mail right now
Cheers,
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April 1st, 2004, 01:34 AM
#13
Member
I'm gonna try out the min/max thermometer. I'll hold off on smacking the bean counter for now. After all, I was allowed to basically get the system I wanted (within reason) almost without question. Of course that may be why now I'm having trouble getting another 10K.
Our ventilation system works on the same principle as your fan idea. One thing lacking right now is a vent on the door of the room to let in cooler air, thus the reason I have to leave it open. But I feel certain the room will reach 90 F during the summer (even with the vent in the door) and I'm afraid it may produce more wear on the hardware than I'd like.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll PM you if I have any more specific questions. CXGJarrod, I'll let you know how it goes.
[glowpurple]I\'d tell you about my paranoia but I think someone else is listening.[/glowpurple]
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April 1st, 2004, 02:11 AM
#14
Hi,
Yes, there are aluminium grilles that fit into doors to provide ventilation.
I'll hold off on smacking the bean counter for now
Awwwwww..............that was the bit I liked best
You might also look for a simple hygrometer (wet&dry bulb) I would also be looking at relative humidity.............can be more damaging than straight temperature?
Can you let me have some idea of local temperature and humidity profiles (external, monthly)
Cheers
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April 1st, 2004, 02:57 AM
#15
Member
During the dog days of summer (mid-June - mid-Sept) the temp regularly goes over 90 F (32 C) with humidity often in the 80-90% range. We're also on the 3rd floor of the building so we get the heat from lower levels.
[glowpurple]I\'d tell you about my paranoia but I think someone else is listening.[/glowpurple]
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April 1st, 2004, 12:41 PM
#16
Well, I have come across similar conditions over here, but only because the project room was in one of those portable cabin type buildings........in summer the temperature would reach 95F with an r/h of about 85%. It did not affect the kit................but I did check, and 95 was as hot as it got.
I managed to get a portable air conditioner, and it was very effective, but you do need to be able to get rid of the hot air they generate, or they are a waste of money. Typically this requires an outlet to the atmosphere.
My argument was that people cannot function efficiently working on intellectual tasks in those conditions............I wonder if you could get any mileage out of that, you should certainly get the support of other managers/staff, and slide your requirement in as part of the whole package?
I think that you need a few fans to keep the air circulating around your kit. Pockets of "stale air" are a real killer, as they can reach temperatures well above the average. Actually, you can look on your computer room as being a huge PC case, many of the physical considerations are identical
Good luck
EDIT: You might like to look into "expanded metal" screens. Over here they are fitted inside windows, so if a thief breaks the glass, they still have this mild steel grille to get through. If you had a large panel of that in your door and no glass, you would get both ventilation and security. Same principle as those insect screen doors, but stronger metal and bigger holes?
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April 1st, 2004, 02:53 PM
#17
yeh tell me about high humidity..
had two weeks of 80% plus humidity, and 38deg c temps and the pc probs during that time.. ouch
HDD's/videocards/ RAM/ PSU's and not in that order... and that was b4 the lightning had a go at the show.. being in the sales I missed the real fun
cheers
"Consumer technology now exceeds the average persons ability to comprehend how to use it..give up hope of them being able to understand how it works." - Me http://www.cybercrypt.co.nr
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April 1st, 2004, 02:58 PM
#18
Member
That's an interesting idea, I'll look into it.
One thing about the portable A/C: obviously it is going to produce water due to condensation. How often did you have to empty the pan?
[glowpurple]I\'d tell you about my paranoia but I think someone else is listening.[/glowpurple]
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April 1st, 2004, 03:50 PM
#19
I didn't,
The guys modified it so it drained through a hole in the hut wall. In your situation I would place it on a table with a tube draining into a bucket below.............then you can easily see when it needs to be emptied?
All you have to do is intercept the tube that drains into the pan............attach some flexible hose to it, and drain the water to where you want to?
I guess you will need a tape measure to get the distance to the bean counter's department.......after all, we don't want to waste money on too much hose
Cheers
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